Blue Chameleon Ventures - Madagascar Tour Itinerary

The "Mad. Tortoise Tour" is a specially organized tour by Bill Love / Blue Chameleon Ventures. The goal is to find the four native species and one introduced species of Madagascar tortoises in the wild. We'll also conduct light research on each, its habitat / flora, and observe as many behavioral aspects of biology as possible. Although tortoises are the ultimate targets, we'll also encounter plenty of chameleons, lemurs, boas, and many of the other endemic animals and plants that make Madagascar a naturalist's playground. Tortoises are the focal point to open the doors for an unforgettable trip to enjoy a huge variety of Madagascar's natural treasures. This will be a unique experience that only a handful of people in the world will ever experience in their lifetimes.

Dr. Peter C. H. Pritchard / world chelonian author and zoologist of the Chelonian Research Institute, Oviedo, Florida will co-lead the tour. For anyone who doesn't already know, a brief summary of his credentials and achievements can be found HERE.

We will concentrate on the western and southern portions of the island where the tortoises occur, plus have a little time to tour the capital Antananarivo ('Tana') too. Summer (January in Madagascar) is the only time of year that it's feasible to view all the tortoise species active in the field. It'll be hot and humid. We will be camping for a significant portion of the tour because lodgings are very primitive to non-existent where we're going. We'll make the travel as comfortable as possible, but please understand that this will not be a total luxury tour. Walking over unimproved (but not mountainous) terrain will be a necessity. It will be warm, probably hot, most of the time, and rain is likely on many of the days. We'll be camping the majority of our days with no electricity or air conditioning. Please consider this carefully when deciding if this adventure trip is for you.

Here is a rough summary of the plan we'll follow; note that the order and means of travel is subject to change depending upon local conditions and other factors beyond control. Note that many towns noted below have Malagasy and French names, and are listed in that order where applicable:

PART 1: Toliara – Itampolo --- We'll fly from Tana to Toliara [=Tulear], then proceed by 4WD vehicles to Itampolo on the southwest coast of Madagascar, 100+ km southeast of Tulear. This takes us through some of the least-traveled parts of the southern spiny forest where the plant life resembles another planet at times. The roads are all unpaved, and the Malagasy villages en route are mostly small and scattered. We'll stop at one with a small enclave of local woodcarvers with rustic sculptures unique to the region, then proceed on via lonely roads to the heart of southern tortoise country.

Deep in the domain of the Mahafaly tribe, the people have a taboo about eating tortoises, and they protect them against other peoples coming in to take them. That's why this is the best area to see them in umbers yet. Pyxis arachnoides is found mainly near the ocean, while Astrochelys [=Geochelone] radiata both in the lowlands at sea level and up on the Mahafaly Plateau. We'll explore both areas, of course, and possibly even have the village chief assist us as local guide.

We'll have time to collect tortoises for taking data, photos, and simply watch them do what they do. The rains will have the region greening up by then, so we should be able to observe them feeding and possibly breeding. The region is also riddled with sinkholes and caves which take some time to explore. Ringtail lemurs, mouse lemurs, Dumeril's boas, spiny chameleons, spinytail iguanas, speckled hognose snakes, and a host of other thorn desert animals inhabit this remote and lonely area. Even the 'bugs' are unusual - in one area I found spiders inhabiting snail shells anchored up in shrubs by their silk. If you like your nature bizarre, this is the place to seek it. Even the majority of adventuresome people who visit Madagascar seldom see it this wild!

Radiated tortoise Astrochelys radiata

Spider tortoise Pyxis arachnoides

PART 2: Morondava - Kirindy Forest --- The main objective here is to see the flat-tailed tortoise Pyxis planicauda in the wild. This is the second rarest tortoise in Madagascar. It lives in dry forest near the central west coast where it spends the majority of its life underground. We'll fly to Morondava and drive up to where it lives in the Kirindy (Swiss) Forest. Our success will depend on the rain, which we hope has begun falling enough by then to bring out the tortoises, but not flood the area in a deluge. We'll camp near the forestry station in simple open-air style cottages while there -- the only choice out there -- but stay in hotels when in town.

We'll walk by day to find our quarry in the forest. Flatshells are about box turtle-sized (4 - 6 inches; 8 - 15 cm), but blend into the leaf litter exceedingly well. They can only be viewed with any reliability in the rainy season when they rise to the surface to wander feeding and mating. We hope to locate many individuals, but past experience tells me we're lucky to find one or two. Along with tortoises, the forest is home to a true variety of other animals, many endemic to the region. Coquerel's sifakas (lemurs) are among the most beautiful species as they leap through the trees. Geckos of several species typically stalk the buildings and trees near the forestry station.

We'll also walk at night to sample the nocturnal fauna. The giant jumping rat lives only here, and the fossa, Mad's largest and most elusive predator, is also as 'common' here as anywhere; this is the only place I've ever personally glimpsed one. The rare Guenther's leaftail gecko and myriad frogs may also be out, especially if the rain has left puddles.

Tree boas and ground boas abound here, as do three kinds of hognose snakes - some in incredible numbers! One of the most gorgeous chameleons of all - LaBord's chameleon - is here too. It's colored up to its maximum splendor at this time of year, especially gravid females. Giant Oustalet's chameleons, Cuvier's spiny iguanas, miniature dwarf chameleons, and numerous other mysterious forest dwellers have been seen here in my many past visits.

We'll stay at a comfy lodge in Morondava on our last night before flying back to Tana.

Flat-tailed tortoise Pyxis planicauda

Guenther's leaftail gecko Uroplatus guentheri

Madagascar Ground boa Acrantophis madagascariensis

PART 3: Mahajanga – Ampijoroa – Soalala --- The objective is to see the angonoka / plowshare tortoise Geochelone [=Astrochelys] yniphora in the wild out at Soalala, west of Mahajanga [=Majunga]. Be prepared - this is a hard-to-get-to place, one of the least-visited places in the country. It's not an excursion for the feint-hearted. There are no modern lodgings en route. We'll have reliable 4WDs (and / or boats), food and water, and full camping gear for the 4 -5 day journey there and back It will be true adventure, not for the feint-hearted!

This tortoise is the rarest one on the planet, estimated to consist of possibly as few as 400 wild individuals. It's also the largest species in Madagascar, reaching about 18" in length. Its numbers have been drastically reduced by a combination of habitat alteration and harvesting for food. Ongoing studies are taking place in the field, and we may connect with some of the local people involved in the study to help locate tortoises. The chance to see the angonoka tortoise in its natural domain is a unique experience that only a few westerners have ever achieved!

As usual, we'll make frequent stops to see other wildlife along the way, try local fruits and other foods, inquire of people in villages about animals they've seen around lately, etc. At all campsites, we'll scout the area day and night and probably encounter unexpected creatures and weird plants. Madagascar's only native freshwater turtle, the Malagasy sideneck - Erymnochelys madagascariensis - also lives in rivers in this region; we'll explore possibilities of seeing it too. We'll also visit the famous tortoise farm set up by the Jersey Wildlife Preservation Trust at Ampijoroa either coming or going, depending on which time is better weather-wise.

Plowshare tortoise, or 'angonoka' Astrochelys yniphora

Madagascar sideneck turtle Erymnochelys madagascariensis

(Extension Option): Antsiranana (Diego-Suarez) - Ambanja - Nosy Be --- The last Mad. tortoise is Bell's hingeback, Kinixys belliana that has been introduced in a few scattered localities and on the island of Nosy Faly. Those wishing to extend their stay and tour the lusher north of Madagascar, including explorations of the isolated French Mountain, the 'sky island' rain forest on Amber Mountain, the tsingy and caves of the Ankarana Massif, encounter the world's most gorgeous chameleons around Ambanja, and finally visit the tropical islands around Nosy Be --- this add-on portion is for you. This extension will be for 5 to 6 days and is actually the first leg of the "Panther Passion Tour" that immediately follows the Mad. Tortoise Tour. We'll fly up and back, but explore the area in between in 4WD vehicles of my trusted friends at King de la Piste Tours in Diego-Suarez.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GENERAL INFO: To take this trip, you must be able to be away for the duration during the month of January. The exact trip dates are still not set in stone at this time; it will take place during the month of January 2009 and will be decided in July 2008 once the number of tour members has been determined. The tour will commence upon our arrival in Antananarivo. By July 2008, Blue Chameleon Ventures will provide all paid tour members with its travel agent and flight information from the U.S. to Paris for those who wish to also book the same flights.

We'll spend approximately 19 days inside the country (plus 5 additional days for whoever chooses the optional northern Madagascar extension). Our 4WD vehicles at all venues will have air conditioning. Each vehicle will seat the driver and one tour leader in front and four tour members in the rows behind. Your luggage will be securely stored on roof racks, and smaller pieces (cameras, etc.) inside as space permits.

The trip will be co-guided by Bill Love, a seasoned leader of 12 trips to Madagascar since 1991, and Dr. Peter C. H. Pritchard of the Chelonian Research Institute in central Florida who has visited the Red Island twice before. WEB: http://www.chelonian.org/cri/ Peter Pritchard will provide the science expertise portion of the team; all inquiries about trip logistics should be directed to Bill Love bill@bluechameleon.org

The cost for the main tour will be approximately $7000 per person --- price subject to change without notice due to fluctuating airline costs for interior Mad. flights, and the fluctuating exchange rate with the Euro, and fuel costs until each tour is paid and ticketed. The cost for the add-on segment after the main tortoise tour will be approximately an additional $2000 per person.

Included: All lodging and meals in Madagascar as per the itinerary, all domestic flights inside Madagascar, all airport transfers and taxes within Madagascar, the services of one or more English-speaking Malagasy guides within Madagascar (in addition to Bill and Peter), services of vehicle(s) and driver(s) as needed throughout the trip, and all entrance fees and fees of local guides in any parks and reserves.

Not included: Airfare to and from Madagascar (you should estimate approximately $2000 per person for this. DO NOT book this yourself before speaking to Bill Love about this. I get a discount on Air Madagascar for groups over 10 people). Also not included are tips, beverages (including non-alcoholic, and water), personal items such as telephone / fax calls and laundry, etc., and any special services of a personal nature away from the group. The price is based on double occupancy in all lodgings (or tents); single (private) rooms / tents would be an additional fee of $600 per person on the main tour and $165 for the extension.

A deposit of $2000.00 per person will secure a place on this tour, and is requested as soon as possible to reserve airline flights, hotel lodgings, vehicles, etc. All tour members must be 'signed up' with full balances paid in full by July 1, 2008. Your deposit is safe, and will be refunded in full if we are not able to find enough tour members to fill this trip. If you must cancel on the tour before September 1, 2008, all money paid, minus a $300 handling fee, will be refunded.

*************************************************************************************************************************

After September 1, 2008, no tour money can be refunded; please consider purchasing

trip cancellation insurance to cover you in case of an emergency need to cancel.

*************************************************************************************************************************

If you would like to be notified by email when this page is updated, or if you have questions, please email me at bill@bluechameleon.org . You may call between 10am and 10pm Eastern Standard Time